Warm Tube Clock sat v2

stitch · Post by **stitch** » 20-10-2015, 14:31

Hi Trax

Finally a good news in case of crystal feature.
Should be normal that crystal work without capacitors , but it was necessary put 2 X 22pf capacitors additional.
Now it´s possible configure the fuses as you said, whoever the buttons does´t do nothing when press.
Should be possible configure date, hour, alarm, etc...in additional features right?
More one problem

.

Best Regards

Post by **trax** » 20-10-2015, 14:45

Yes, it should all work just great.
Can you check your buttons, or even the PCB layout for defects or bad soldering?

Do you even know how to configure the clock? Here is the MENU explained: http://www.elektronika.ba/misc/warm_tube_clock_menu.pdf

To enter the MENU, you need to press&hold right button (I think it was the right button, I forgot

).

stitch · Post by **stitch** » 21-10-2015, 11:12

Hi Trax

I´m glad to communicate you, my warm tube clock v2 is working know, yesterday night after some investigation, and after hold down the right button during 2,3 seconds the menu features appear me, nice work....
The menu is very intuitive, whoever i found a little "bugs", let me describe better:

Menu 02-Alarm time, should be possible activate/inactivate by during time : example (xx:MM) = 00, whoever the first show time is 02....confirm?

Menu 06-Date Leds, should be possible as menu 05(Time leds) configure by number until 255 (8 bits), but you adjust the set leds , by pressing the right button and see the leds growing....?

But this is only for your information, the code and the concept is very nice and you have made a good work...many thank´s for you fast support.

Best Regards

Post by **trax** » 21-10-2015, 11:27

Hi,

I am very glad you finally completed the clock. Please send some photos

Thanks for the tips about the MENU. The source code is available and you should take a look at it because there might be some additional options in the firmware which I didn't describe in the PDF of menu explanation.

IP-Igor · Post by **IP-Igor** » 06-12-2015, 21:39

Hi,trax!
I have a question. When you turn on the clock, green leds start blinking . I want them to light without blinking and also it will be good if the color of leds is able to be changed to any other. Also I wonder if we can backlight the date. And also I want to know if we can use bigger value of the capacitor C13

Post by **trax** » 07-12-2015, 14:20

The LEDs can blink or be off completely, but you can change the firmware to customize it! The green LEDs can be changed in "menu".
The date is highlighted when displayed... Did you enter the "menu" of the clock, to see all options?

IP-Igor · Post by **IP-Igor** » 13-12-2015, 19:21

In which part of the program do I need to change the code to get constant light instead of blinking? And what do you think about the C13 capacitor?

Post by **trax** » 17-12-2015, 12:27

Sorry for the late reply, I was extremely busy. Yes, you can use bigger value for C13, but rated at minimum 250V!
You only need to disable "led toggling" in interrupt routine.

Here is the original code (find it in wt2.c):

Code: Select all

	// Syncrhonized toggling of dots and LEDs
	if( RTC[TIME_S] % 2 && !bv(AutoOffed,BSYS) ) // dont work LEDs while auto-offed
	{
		if( bv(ToggleLEDs,BAPP1) && bv(LEDtoggling,BUSR1) )
		{
			rgb_led(0,rgb_time_color[0],rgb_time_color[1],rgb_time_color[2]);
			rgb_led(1,rgb_time_color[0],rgb_time_color[1],rgb_time_color[2]);
			rgb_led(2,rgb_time_color[0],rgb_time_color[1],rgb_time_color[2]);
			rgb_led(3,rgb_time_color[0],rgb_time_color[1],rgb_time_color[2]);
		}
		if( bv(ToggleColons,BAPP1) )
		{
			set1(NIXIE_UDOT_PORT,NIXIE_UDOT_PIN);
			set1(NIXIE_LDOT_PORT,NIXIE_LDOT_PIN);
		}
	}
	else
	{
		if( bv(ToggleLEDs,BAPP1) && bv(LEDtoggling,BUSR1) )
		{
			rgb_led(0,0,0,0);
			rgb_led(1,0,0,0);
			rgb_led(2,0,0,0);
			rgb_led(3,0,0,0);
		}
		if( bv(ToggleColons,BAPP1) )
		{
			// if 12hr mode is used, we should report it by leaving one nixie dot ON
			// for PM we blink the lower nixie dot
			if( bv(RTC_12hr,BUSR1) && temp_hours>=12 )
			{
				set0(NIXIE_LDOT_PORT,NIXIE_LDOT_PIN);	// it is PM, so blink lower one
			}
			// 12hr mode is used, and it is AM
			else if( bv(RTC_12hr,BUSR1) )
			{
				set0(NIXIE_UDOT_PORT,NIXIE_UDOT_PIN);	// it is AM, so blink the upper one
			}
			// 24hr mode is used, so turn them both off so they both blink
			else
			{
				set0(NIXIE_UDOT_PORT,NIXIE_UDOT_PIN);
				set0(NIXIE_LDOT_PORT,NIXIE_LDOT_PIN);
			}
			/*
			// now there is no way of knowing when snooze is active...
			// keep the upper dot ON while snooze is active!
			if( !bv(RTC_Snoozing,BAPP1) )
			{

				set0(NIXIE_UDOT_PORT,NIXIE_UDOT_PIN);	// snooze not active, so turn this one off also so it actually blinks
			}
			set0(NIXIE_LDOT_PORT,NIXIE_LDOT_PIN);		// the bottom one will be blinking...
			*/
		}
	}

Replace it with this code and try (I didn't test it):

Code: Select all

	// Syncrhonized toggling of dots and LEDs
	if( RTC[TIME_S] % 2 && !bv(AutoOffed,BSYS) ) // dont work LEDs while auto-offed
	{
		if( bv(ToggleLEDs,BAPP1) && bv(LEDtoggling,BUSR1) )
		{
			rgb_led(0,rgb_time_color[0],rgb_time_color[1],rgb_time_color[2]);
			rgb_led(1,rgb_time_color[0],rgb_time_color[1],rgb_time_color[2]);
			rgb_led(2,rgb_time_color[0],rgb_time_color[1],rgb_time_color[2]);
			rgb_led(3,rgb_time_color[0],rgb_time_color[1],rgb_time_color[2]);
		}
		// added on 2015-12-17
		if( bv(ToggleLEDs,BAPP1) && !bv(LEDtoggling,BUSR1) )
		{
			rgb_led(0,0,0,0);
			rgb_led(1,0,0,0);
			rgb_led(2,0,0,0);
			rgb_led(3,0,0,0);
		}
		if( bv(ToggleColons,BAPP1) )
		{
			set1(NIXIE_UDOT_PORT,NIXIE_UDOT_PIN);
			set1(NIXIE_LDOT_PORT,NIXIE_LDOT_PIN);
		}
	}
	else
	{
		// commented on 2015-12-17
		/*if( bv(ToggleLEDs,BAPP1) && bv(LEDtoggling,BUSR1) )
		{
			rgb_led(0,0,0,0);
			rgb_led(1,0,0,0);
			rgb_led(2,0,0,0);
			rgb_led(3,0,0,0);
		}*/
		if( bv(ToggleColons,BAPP1) )
		{
			// if 12hr mode is used, we should report it by leaving one nixie dot ON
			// for PM we blink the lower nixie dot
			if( bv(RTC_12hr,BUSR1) && temp_hours>=12 )
			{
				set0(NIXIE_LDOT_PORT,NIXIE_LDOT_PIN);	// it is PM, so blink lower one
			}
			// 12hr mode is used, and it is AM
			else if( bv(RTC_12hr,BUSR1) )
			{
				set0(NIXIE_UDOT_PORT,NIXIE_UDOT_PIN);	// it is AM, so blink the upper one
			}
			// 24hr mode is used, so turn them both off so they both blink
			else
			{
				set0(NIXIE_UDOT_PORT,NIXIE_UDOT_PIN);
				set0(NIXIE_LDOT_PORT,NIXIE_LDOT_PIN);
			}
			/*
			// now there is no way of knowing when snooze is active...
			// keep the upper dot ON while snooze is active!
			if( !bv(RTC_Snoozing,BAPP1) )
			{

				set0(NIXIE_UDOT_PORT,NIXIE_UDOT_PIN);	// snooze not active, so turn this one off also so it actually blinks
			}
			set0(NIXIE_LDOT_PORT,NIXIE_LDOT_PIN);		// the bottom one will be blinking...
			*/
		}
	}

hetoosten · Post by **hetoosten** » 30-07-2016, 10:04

I have ordered a pcb v2 by Elecrow. The pcb comes in one piece. What is the best way to separate the pcb pieces? I fear to damage the circuit lines.

What is the purpose of the two small stripes between the three main pcb's. Cannot find anything about them in the instructions.

Is there a pcb available with the smd parts already mounted. I am good with soldering, just not comfortable with the smd part.

Post by **trax** » 31-07-2016, 07:33

Hi,

Sorry for the late reply

The boards are in a panel because that way is cheaper to manufacture them. It would cost 3x as much if they were separated in the factory.
You need to cut these apart using a saw (it would be best), or you could use a ruler with a craft knife (a scalpel) - make many cuts and then separate by hand. Please open the image in this attachment to see where to cut.

IMAG0991.jpg: CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS; (936.63 KiB) Downloaded 1 time

The purpose of stripes between three main PCBs is a dummy PCB - cut it away - it is not used for anything. Sorry about the confusion

Regarding the SMD components, that is a quite simple task. You will need few things, so check this out: http://www.elektronika.ba/misc/shield_in-16.pdf

I do not have a plan to offer PCBs with presoldered SMD components

Best regards, and make some photos while you assemble this clock!

hetoosten · Post by **hetoosten** » 31-07-2016, 07:51

Thanks for the reply!

Everything is clear now with the cutting. I was concerned to damage a circuit line, but I can use a saw at a safe distant now.

It will be new to me to surface mount parts. But that's ok, it doesn't look too hard.

I will post images. It can take a while though because some parts have to come from china by mail

I am looking forward to the assembling.

Post by **trax** » 31-07-2016, 08:20

Great news!
Yes, I, too, am waiting for some parts from china for another project. This wait is slow a killer

Niall · Post by **Niall** » 21-09-2016, 12:01

So more than a year after I began gathering the parts, I finally start making the clock

Soldering iron ready, space on the table ready, kids in school, here we go.

Post by **trax** » 21-09-2016, 12:18

Hehe, good luck!
There are assembly instructions for v1, you might want to look at that too, before you start:
http://www.elektronika.ba/misc/main_board_v1.pdf
http://www.elektronika.ba/misc/shield_in-16.pdf

Niall · Post by **Niall** » 23-09-2016, 19:40

Thanks Trax. I have the assembly instructions printed out, sort of following them step by step. I then realised that I was missing some stuff,a diaode, a resistor and the IC sockets, all of which I have ordered and waiting for delivery. I think the thing I find most daunting will be soldering the RTC IC.

Post by **trax** » 23-09-2016, 20:53

Oh, then you should see the shield assembly instructions. RTC chip is not a problem

But trust me, none of that is a problem really. Just concentrate and it will.bee all good.

Niall · Post by **Niall** » 05-10-2016, 12:11

I guess for the experienced, none of this is a problem

. I saw in the shield assembly that solder paste is used and melted with an iron, having many of the components already in place it was not possible to get the iron under the board so I wen ahead and soldered it manually. I really don't know if I did a good job, very tight space, but we will see. Quick question, the 2 NPN transistors, KSP42, in the Version 1 assembly they are beside each other next to the IC sockets, but in the V.2 there is only place for one of there. From the picture of the completed V2 board I see another transistor on one side, behind the switches, is this the other KSP42?
And is the zener Diode used in V2?

Post by **trax** » 05-10-2016, 13:19

That smd component has a ground pad underneath it that must be soldered. You really should heat the IC so that ground pad gets soldered. You can use hot air gun for that purpose too.
Both versions have two NPN KSP42 transistors, they control the nixe dots (colons).
You do not need the Zener diode really... I did not solder it on my clock

You should open the project files in Eagle to see where the components are located

Niall · Post by **Niall** » 06-10-2016, 22:47

For the shield assembly I will follow the instructions and use the iron and solder paste, I was referring to the RTC IC when I said I soldered it manually, as far as I could tell there there wasn't a ground pad underneath the RTC IC. Like I said in the beginning, I have very little experience in electronics and would probably be annoying with stupid questions, I am just some one who is good with their hands, likes making stuff and can follow instructions.

I had to figure out what eagle was, so when i did I downloaded it and opened the schematics, I am still trying to figure them out, but learning something.

Post by **trax** » 07-10-2016, 02:33

Oh good then. Rtc does not have ground pad so you are all good.
Let me know if I can help with the assembly, do not hesitate to ask.
And congrats on your courage to assemble this clock. It is not for beginners but as you are good with your hands it should not be a problem for you!

Elektronika.ba

Warm Tube Clock sat v2

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