This is a very simple IR light dimmer that you will wish to have sooner or later, especially those who are lazy enough to get up and turn off the lights. There are two versions of PCB for two sizes of capacitors, so PCBs are: 32.5 x 26.5mm and 28.5 x 27mm. You can download the project files at the bottom of this page by clicking on red "download" button.
Features of current beta version of firmware:
- Soft start (gradually turning on the light bulb) - Soft down (gradually turning off the light bulb) - Learning IR codes from RC5 and NEC remotes - Dimming in 10 levels by using only IR remote - Previous dimm-level remembering when operating with remote - Sleep timer in duration of 1.6min for 60Hz version and 2min for 50Hz version - ON/OFF control with wall pushbutton
Dimmer is connected to existing home wiring installation inside a junction box, which is usually located above the light switch. In order to properly connect the dimmer to installation one should follow the schematics provided for that purpose. If connected differently there is a very big chance of some freaky side effects such as burned PIC microcontroller, serious fire and who knows what else.
Learning remote control IR codes (programming procedure) After connecting dimmer to installation you must program the remote control buttons. Here is how to do that:
1. Hold the wall pushbutton for 11 sec so that dimmer can enter programming mode. After those 11 sec, LED will start to blink fast, and light will dimm to third (3.) level. Now you have 11 sec to complete the programming sequence: 2. Press the first button on your remote that will increase light level or turn on the light when it is turned off (ON/UP) 3. Press the second button on your remote that will be used to decrease the light level (DOWN) 4. Press the third button that will be used for activating/deactivating sleep mode (SLEEP) 5. Finally, press the fourth button that will be used to turn off light completely (OFF)
During programming, both the light bulb and LED will blink to confirm IR code reception. If your remote control does not have all 4 buttons that you can use, you can repeat previous button but that will cancel out some features. For example, if your remote has only two buttons (A and B), and if during programming you press: A A A B, that means that key A will be used for ON/UP function, and key B will be used to completely turn off the light. If you choose combination A B B B, it means that the key A will be again used for ON/UP function, and key B will be used to decrease light level (it will also turn the light off completely in 10 button presses - until zero level). Programming notice: If during programming, you notice that LED blinks even when you don't press any buttons on your remote control, it is probably because you used TSOP11xx instead of TSOP17xx receiver module. In that case, you will probably not be able to program your dimmer properly. If you are not satisfied with your choice of remote controller buttons, you can repeat the learning procedure as much as you like. If you are planning to use your TV's remote controller, you should probably choose those teletext buttons: red, green, yellow and blue to avoid, for example, switching channels when operating the dimmer.
Sleep timer Sleep timer can be activated by a bit longer wall-pushbutton press, more than 1.8 sec to be precise, or by pressing the appropriate button on the remote controller. Sleep timer cancellation is accomplished just like the activation. It is possible to increase/decrease the light level when sleep timer is active. Dimmer will automatically set the light level to six (6) when entering the sleep mode, but only if previous level was greater than 6.
Important notice: This device is connected to mains power line, so it requires a lot of respect. If you are not sure in what you are doing, you better leave the installation part to the experienced electrician.
Dimmer in operation:
Note: Dimmer works better with TIC206 rather than TIC216!
Ok. I am a bit frustated now... I've dedicated all my saturday and part of sunday, to build my
PCB, buy all the pieces, burned the PIC correctly, and assembly everything, and put on the AC
(110v/60Hz). Simply nothing happened. :( Not even exploded. (lol). Nothing get warm, the Bulb
don't started up, the led don't blink, nothing. Very strange. I will replace the PIC now, and
re-check everything...Wish me luck. :) IP: 189.62.107.252
Hi Trax ! I am assembling the circuit parts right now and soldering... I have another doubt...
Look at the PIC Pin 2. You have a LED directly to it on the Schematics, but on the PCB there's
the "R5" Resistor on the PIN2 and then on the LEDa (Anode). Wich one is the right ? IP: 189.62.107.252
Trax. I am rebuilding the PCD layout using the Sprint-Layout. Adjusting it to use Regular
Resistors (Non-SMD), so another doubt poped-out in my mind... There's "LEDa" and
"LEDk" indications on the board. But these points shows just 1 pin (drill)... And i
can't see Leds on your Photos of the board... Can you help me on that ? Sorry to bug you
everyday with that questions.And tnx in Advance for your help.:) IP: 187.9.44.150
Trax. Now everything looks ok. :) I've read another brandNew 629, and took the Calib.Value,
merged it on your code,and burned it back with your Hex using CP checkbox unchecked. Sucessful.
:) Thx again. Now i am going to build the PCB... I will need to change the layout a bit cause
your are using some SMD Resistors, and they are not to easy to find here... I will have to use
ordinary resistors with the same specs. IP: 189.62.107.252
Hi! Well, you don't have to throw it in the trash. There is a way to figure out that
calibration value, but you must google for it. Anyway, for the dimmer you probably will have to
use another one. I am not sure what you want to do with your living rooms but there has to be
the soft up/down circuit for you *somewhere* on the web :) IP: n/a