This is a very simple IR light dimmer that you will wish to have sooner or later, especially those who are lazy enough to get up and turn off the lights. There are two versions of PCB for two sizes of capacitors, so PCBs are: 32.5 x 26.5mm and 28.5 x 27mm.
You can download the project files at the bottom of this page by clicking on red "download" button.
Features of current beta version of firmware:
- Soft start (gradually turning on the light bulb)
- Soft down (gradually turning off the light bulb)
- Learning IR codes from RC5 and NEC remotes
- Dimming in 10 levels by using only IR remote
- Previous dimm-level remembering when operating with remote
- Sleep timer in duration of 1.6min for 60Hz version and 2min for 50Hz version
- ON/OFF control with wall pushbutton
Dimmer is connected to existing home wiring installation inside a junction box, which is usually located above the light switch. In order to properly connect the dimmer to installation one should follow the schematics provided for that purpose. If connected differently there is a very big chance of some freaky side effects such as burned PIC microcontroller, serious fire and who knows what else.
Learning remote control IR codes (programming procedure)
After connecting dimmer to installation you must program the remote control buttons. Here is how to do that:
1. Hold the wall pushbutton for 11 sec so that dimmer can enter programming mode. After those 11 sec, LED will start to blink fast, and light will dimm to third (3.) level. Now you have 11 sec to complete the programming sequence:
2. Press the first button on your remote that will increase light level or turn on the light when it is turned off (ON/UP)
3. Press the second button on your remote that will be used to decrease the light level (DOWN)
4. Press the third button that will be used for activating/deactivating sleep mode (SLEEP)
5. Finally, press the fourth button that will be used to turn off light completely (OFF)
During programming, both the light bulb and LED will blink to confirm IR code reception. If your remote control does not have all 4 buttons that you can use, you can repeat previous button but that will cancel out some features. For example, if your remote has only two buttons (A and B), and if during programming you press: A A A B, that means that key A will be used for ON/UP function, and key B will be used to completely turn off the light. If you choose combination A B B B, it means that the key A will be again used for ON/UP function, and key B will be used to decrease light level (it will also turn the light off completely in 10 button presses - until zero level).
Programming notice: If during programming, you notice that LED blinks even when you don't press any buttons on your remote control, it is probably because you used TSOP11xx instead of TSOP17xx receiver module. In that case, you will probably not be able to program your dimmer properly.
If you are not satisfied with your choice of remote controller buttons, you can repeat the learning procedure as much as you like.
If you are planning to use your TV's remote controller, you should probably choose those teletext buttons: red, green, yellow and blue to avoid, for example, switching channels when operating the dimmer.
Sleep timer
Sleep timer can be activated by a bit longer wall-pushbutton press, more than 1.8 sec to be precise, or by pressing the appropriate button on the remote controller. Sleep timer cancellation is accomplished just like the activation. It is possible to increase/decrease the light level when sleep timer is active. Dimmer will automatically set the light level to six (6) when entering the sleep mode, but only if previous level was greater than 6.
Important notice: This device is connected to mains power line, so it requires a lot of respect. If you are not sure in what you are doing, you better leave the installation part to the experienced electrician.
Dimmer in operation:
Note: Dimmer works better with TIC206 rather than TIC216!
Author (sent by): Trax
Download counter: 55,403
Rating: 
(3.00, votes 8295)
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Date: 07-02-2009
Lokalna verzija ove stranice: IR dimmer svjetla v1
rode a two-piece normal ran the other, when put on the light and get a maximum by pressing the
lamp for maximum brightness is wavering, I realized that when I turn off the LED pin two of the
PIC, everything works normal, or wait about 5 seconds it operate normally, but every time I
turn it happens, what could it be? thank you ate more.
IP: 201.43.195.178
montei duas peças uma funcionou normal a outra, quando acendo a luz no maximo e fico apertando
a tecla para maximo brilho a lampada fica oscilando, percebi que quando desligo o led do pino
dois do pic, funciona tudo normal, ou espero uns 5 segundos ele funciona normal, mas toda vez
que ligo acontece isso, oque poderia ser? obrigado ate mais.
IP: 201.43.195.178
@npn: sad sve dobro radi (onako kako bi trebalo). na jedan pritisak dugmeta svjetlo bi trebalo
da se ukljuci, ali tvoje se ne ukljucuje. ili nisi spojio sijalicu (potrosac), ili nisi dobro
spojio, ili ti triac ne radi, ili otpornik R2 na GATE-u od triaca, ili onaj megaomski otpornik
R3 koji gleda kada sinusoida prodje kroz nulu.
ovo kada si dugo drzao dugme, uredjaj je uletio u PROGRAM mode i to je sve OK.
IP: n/a
Imam problem jahali dva dijela jedan na drugi već dobro radila kada sam skrenuti svjetlo na
maksimum i ja sam slanje signala za maksimalnu svjetlinu svjetlo je oscilirajuće što mogu
učiniti, shvatio sam da ako ostavite off LED ne pojavljuje taj problem, ako ja mogu pomoći u
rješavanju hvala!
IP: 201.27.200.38
Evo, odlemio sam i zalemio 10k izmedju vcc i out... I desava se ovo na snimku...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhAzX3D33hg
Zar ne bi trebao na taster da se pali i gasi dimer, IAKO NEMA ir prijemnik, ili sam ja pogresno
razumeo?
A ovo nije TSOP nego SFH5110/36, pise u dokumentaciji da moze i taj... Inace nov je kupljen,
prvi put stavljen u ovaj uredjaj...
Narucio sam jos piceva i prijemnika, ima da ga napravim pa ne znam sta da je... Ali ovog puta
narucio sam TSOP, da probam sa njim :)
Jel dobro
IP: n/a
PIC radi kako treba (koliko vidim). Probaj ovo; odlemi TSOP totalno. Na pin 3 od PIC-a stavi
otpornik od 10k a drugi kraj spoji na VCC (+, to je pin 1). Ako ti LED prestane da blinka znaci
da je do TSOP-a.
IP: n/a
Evo sta se TACNO desava... Sa dva pic-a, dva uopste ne pale led... Ne znam zasto...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AscR8QdE2X4
A evo i podesavanja, ovako treba?
http://i53.tinypic.com/6fzkav.jpg
IP: n/a
Vjerovatno nisi dobro izabrao FUSES prilikom programiranja. Kada ucitas HEX izaberi opcije:
CP(off), WDT(off), MCLRE(off), PWRTE(on), INTOSC(on).
Ako ti LED besmisleno blinka to znaci da je prijemnik previse osjetljiv i neces moci
isprogramirati IR kodove.
IP: n/a
Sumnjam da je pogresno povezivanje u pitanju, ne zato sto sam koristio pdf od SFH 5110/36 pri
spajanju elemenata, vec zato sto kada probam sa dugim pic-em i drugacijem programiranju (probao
sam masu opcija cp, oscl i tako to, a zaista ne znam gde udaram) sada ne svetli ne trepce
uopste, ne reaguje...
Ne znam gde gresim, sem u pic-u... hardver je bez greske, 3x sam detaljno pregledao.. Sa
PicProg4U izbacuje neke silne greske pri verifikaciji, sa WinPic uspem bez gresaka, ali ne radi
kolo, a ICProg odbija
IP: n/a
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