
800m (2400ft) FM
transmitter that fits on top of a 9v battery.
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ASSEMBLY Before you do
anything, prepare the workbench for a completely different approach to
work. Lay out two sheets of clean white paper and place the kit of
parts on one. Don't take the resistors out of the carriers until you are
ready - a resistor dropped may be a resistor lost. Study the board and
note that all the components are identified by the printing on the top of
the board, called the overlay or legend. You really don't need any
instructions at all, but since this may be your first attempt at
surface-mount, we will provide some helpful advice. Note how the board
stands on top of a 9v battery, with the battery snap soldered to the edge
of the board. The positive and negative lands on the board are large so
that the connections to the snap will be strong. The microphone fits on
the top of the board with two short wires and overhangs the board. Some
microphones come with wires attached and this makes them easy to fit.
Others may need to have wires attached and these can come from the leads
of the capacitors. The only 4 components that have to be fitted around
the correct way are the two transistors, the microphone and battery snap.
All the other parts, including the capacitors, coil and resistors can be
soldered around either way. The air trimmer is best soldered so that the
lead going to the screw is connected to the positive rail. Once you
have studied the photos, the PC board and components, you can
start. Here is the order for assembly: 5 surface mount resistors
6 capacitors 2 transistors air trimmer (variable capacitor)
coil battery snap, wire to hold the battery snap to PC board
microphone (test the circuit with LED power meter) antenna
lead.
 The Voyager MkII
components
PARTS
LIST |
SEMICONDUCTORS 2 - BC547 or PN2222 (NPN
transistors)
RESISTORS (All are surface mount
1/10th watt) 1 - 470R marked as 471 1 - 10k
"
" 103 1 - 47k
"
" 473 1 - 68k
" "
683 1 - 1M
"
" 105
CAPACITORS 1 - 10p
ceramic-disc NPO type 1 - 39p ceramic-disc NPO type
1 - 1n ceramic-disc 2 - 22n
ceramic-disc 1 - 100n monoblock
1 - 2p to 10p air
trimmer
ADDITIONAL PARTS AND MATERIALS 1 - 5 turn
coil .020in (0.5mm) enamelled wire 1/8in (3mm) dia 1 - electret
microphone insert 1 - 9v battery snap 12in (30cm) fine
solder 5ft 9in (175cm) hook-up wire. 1 - Voyager MkII PC Board
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SOLDERING Now for the finer
points: The surface mount resistors required a fair degree of skill and
you have to be good at soldering if you want to make the board look neat.
Read the notes on resistor identification and make sure you understand
the 3 digit code. Place the strip of resistors on the work-bench and
take one out of the carrier strip, keeping the code numbers on top. Turn
the resistor around so that the numbers make sense (make sure you don't
read the numbers around the wrong way!) and place it on the board as shown
in the diagram below, so that it is square with the sides of the board.
The SM resistors on the underside of the board
Standard soldering: There
are two ways of soldering the chip. One is to sit it in place and heat one
end with a soldering iron while applying solder and then repeat with the
other end. The other method is called RE-FLOW. Re-flow
Soldering: In this method you add a little solder to each land on
the board and tin the ends of the chip while holding it in your fingers.
Yes! you can actually hold the chip while soldering the other end. If you
can't, you are taking too long. When both the lands on the PC board and
the ends of the chip are tinned, it is placed in position and held with a
piece of wire such as an opened-out paper clip while touching one end with
a soldering iron. This is repeated with the other end. If you have
added enough solder in the pre-tinning stage you will not have to add any
more, otherwise a little solder can be added to make the connection neat
and shiny. It is important not to put any force on the chip during the
soldering process as the ends can be easily detached from the ceramic
substrate and the resistor will go open circuit. A hairline crack will be
produced and the only way to check that the resistor has not been damaged
is to measure it with a multimeter set to ohms range. The other 4 chips
are placed on the board in exactly the same way, making sure they are
covering the lands and sitting flat on the board. Double check the
codes and if everything is correct you have carried out your first
surface-mount placement! The rest of the assembly is a lot easier. It's
just a matter of doing things in the correct order. All the other
components are mounted on the top of the board and when two formats are
combined like this, the assembly is called HYBRID. Refer to the layout
diagram for the placement of the 6 capacitors. These are soldered in
place, one at a time. Some of the leads may have to be bent slightly to
allow the component to fit down the holes as it is almost impossible to
get all components in either .1" or .2" spacing. Next, the two
transistors are soldered in place. Push them down until they are 1/8" from
the board as we want to keep the profile low. In addition, we have
designed the circuit with the transistor leads as short as possible. If
you place the transistors high off the board, the performance of the
oscillator will be different to our prototype. Solder the leads
quickly so that you don't heat up the transistor too much. The air
trimmer is next. This must be soldered very quickly otherwise the plastic
insulation between the plates will melt or buckle. Keep a finger on the
trimmer to act as a heatsink and everything will be ok. The coil is
made from enamel coated wire and this coating must be scraped off with a
knife or burnt off with a hot soldering iron so that the two ends are
bright and shiny and tinned before fitting the coil to the board. The
kit comes with a pre-wound coil but if you are making it yourself, here
are the details: Wind 5 turns of 24B&S (.020in or 0.5mm) or
21B&S (.028in or 0.7mm) wire on a 1/8" (3mm) diameter shaft such as a
small Philips screwdriver and space the turns as shown in the
photo. The coil determines the frequency of the oscillator and the
turns will be stretched apart or squashed together after the project is
complete. At this stage it does not matter about the spacing, as long as
the ends fit neatly down the holes in the board. Make sure the ends
have been tinned by firstly scraping off the red enamel insulation with
the back of a knife, then adding solder to the wire so that it covers the
end of the wire fully and thinly. Push the coil up to the board and solder
it in place with the turns evenly spaced. Now the battery snap. If you
want this project to produce the highest output power, the battery snap
must be fitted directly to the board. The project does not need
an on/off switch as the battery is simply unclipped when not
required. To fit the battery snap, take it out of its plastic jacket
and solder it directly to the edge of the board. The crown and cup on the
snap will be loose when the plastic is removed and they will have to be
tightened by tapping the rivet with a centre-punch. The "crown" terminal
is soldered to the positive land on the board by fitting a piece of tinned
copper wire through the two holes in the board. The ends are twisted
together and fitted through the centre of the crown and cut short so that
they don't interfere with the terminal on the battery. Use plenty
of solder as it is necessary to make a good mechanical connection as well
as an electrical connection. The terminals must not be able to be
rotated and if they can be turned, they should be soldered again. Use very
little solder inside the crown as the positive terminal of the battery
must be able to fit inside to make a firm contact. Repeat with the other
terminal. One of the last components to fit is the microphone as its
two leads are very fine and any unnecessary bending will cause them to
break. The microphone in the kit comes with two short wires
attached and if you look at the solder-lands on the back of the device you
will see one goes to the case. This is the negative terminal and must be
soldered down the negative hole on the board. Finally the antenna. This
is soldered down the hole market "ant." But before fitting
the antenna you can check the output of the transmitter with a LED power
meter. This is fitted to the antenna point on the board (without the
antenna wire connected). By using this piece of test equipment you can
determine if the project is delivering an output. You will also need an FM
radio to make sure the output is on the FM
band.
THE LED
POWER METER
 The Voyager MkII connected to the LED Power Meter
The LED power Meter is a simple RF
detector using diodes to charge a capacitor. The voltage developed across
the capacitor is indicated by a multimeter set to a low voltage range. The
circuit is soldered together without the need for a PC board, as can be
seen in the diagram above and paper clips are used for the positive and
negative terminals of the multimeter. It will only take a few
minutes to put this circuit together. The power from the output of the
Voyager MkII is indicated by the illumination of a LED and the voltage
reading on the multimeter gives a further indication of the output. The
reading is not calibrated and does not represent milliwatts output. It is
only a visual indication.
LED Power Meter
Parts |
1 - 470R 1 - 100p
ceramic 1 - 100n ceramic 2 - 1N 4148 diodes 1 - 5mm Red LED 1 - 2in (5cm) hook-up wire 2 - paper
clips No PC board required |
USING THE LED POWER
METER Connect the 2in (5cm) lead to
the antenna point on the Voyager MkII board as shown above and turn the
project on. The lead of the LED Power Meter will act as an antenna, so
place a radio nearby and tune it to about 88.5MHz or somewhere at the low
end of the band. Move the turns of the 5 turn oscillator coil either
together or stretch them apart until a feedback whistle is picked up by
the radio. This is the frequency of transmission. When the turns are
pushed together the frequency decreases and when moved apart, the
frequency increases. You must not use any metal objects near the coil
when moving the turns. If you do, the reading will be upset. The best
item to use is a match or plastic knitting needle as you should keep your
fingers and hands away from the coil while adjusting it. The multimeter
will show a reading of about 2v and this voltage will depend on the
quality of the transistors. Once you are satisfied the project is working,
remove the LED Power Meter and solder the antenna lead to the
board. Move the radio a short distance away and tune across the band to
make sure the output is coming through and to see if you have picked up
the main frequency of transmission. Carry out some
experiments yourself and you will be very impressed with the
performance. By moving the Voyager MkII further away you will be able
to pick up the sounds it detects. Make sure the frequency of transmission
is well away from any radio stations as the signal from a station will
swamp the Voyager MkII when you are testing it for range. You can do this
by adjusting the air trimmer. You can see the vanes moving in and out of
mesh with the stators and the meshing should be mid-way at the start of
the test so you can raise or lower the frequency by turning the
trimmer. As the vanes move out of mesh, the capacitance of the trimmer
decreases and the frequency of the output increases. When adjusting the
trimmer you must use a non-metallic instrument. The best is a plastic
knitting needle filed to make it into a flat screwdriver. If you do not
get a squeal from the radio you can assume the frequency is lower than the
band (we have designed the output to be very close to the bottom of the
band) and it may be just a little too low. In this case you will
have to raise the frequency by expanding the turns of the coil. This will
bring the output onto the FM band and you can shift it slightly up or down
with the air trimmer to get it away from other stations. To get the
maximum range the antenna should be stretched out straight and placed
either horizontally or vertically. The receiving antenna must be in the
same plane to get the maximum range and both antennas should be as high as
possible. The signal is generally not affected by brick walls, glass or
plaster but it will not pass through metal of any kind such as aluminium
foil or metal cladding. Trees can also have an effect due to the amount of
moisture they contain. The signal will also find it difficult to get
out of a car and you must place the antenna near a window but away from
the metal frame-work as this will almost totally absorb the signal. The
range from a car will be a lot less than the 800m we stated at the
beginning.
IF IT
DOESN'T WORK If you cannot detect an
output on the LED Power Meter, you can safely assume the oscillator stage
is not working. Measure the current for the project. It should be about
7mA. If it is only about 3mA, the oscillator transistor may be damaged or
not being turned on. You cannot measure any of the voltages around the
oscillator transistor and expect to get an accurate reading as the leads
of a multimeter will upset the operation of the circuit. However if you
measure the voltage on the emitter of the second transistor and find it is
zero, it is not being turned on and you should check the 47k base-bias
resistor. If it is 9v, the transistor may be shorted or the 470R resistor
may be open circuit. But the most likely cause of the project not
working will be a soldering fault, such as a bridge between two tracks,
poorly soldered joints, or two components that have been swapped - such as
the 47k and 470R. The best thing to do is give the project to someone
else to check as it is very difficult to check your own work. If you
have used your own parts to build the project, the fault could be in the
markings on the components (or incorrect reading of the values) or the
wrong size coil. The only solution is to buy a kit and put it together -
you can then compare one project against the other. If you are picking
up a blank spot (called the carrier) on the dial but no audio, the fault
will lie in the first stage or the microphone. Check the voltage
on the collector of the audio transistor. It should be about 2.4v, however
if it is above 6v or less than 1v, the transistor will not be biased
correctly and the 1M base-bias resistor may be at fault. The electret
microphone needs only about 50mV across it to work and the only real way
to check it and the audio stage is to use a CRO or audio amplifier (our
prototype had 200mV DC across the microphone). By whistling into the
microphone at a distance of about one foot (30cm), you will get an output
of about 10 - 30mV. The audio transistor will provide a gain of about 70
and produce an output of about 700mV - 2,100mV, as mentioned
previously. If the microphone does not produce at least 10mV, it may be
around the wrong way, damaged, or have very low sensitivity. Reducing the
68k load resistor may help if the microphone is a low sensitivity
type.
FITTING THE
BATTERY The Voyager MkII is designed
to fit on top of a 9v battery and doesn't need any case or potting. The
safest thing is not to enclose it at all as heatshrinking can squash the
coil and change the frequency of operation. Fully-assembled devices
SB-800 are available from Talking Electronics, for those who are
not good at soldering or want a built-up unit.
They are covered with heat-shrink so they can be handled and
easily fitted to a battery. You can heatshrink your own model by buying a
short length of heat-shrink tubing and placing it over the board and
shrinking with a candle or gas torch. Crimp the ends with a pair of
pointed-nose pliers so they stick together and make a good seal. Cut
around the two battery terminals and make a smaller hole for the air
trimmer so the frequency can be adjusted, and the project is ready for
use.
That's the complete story. I hope you get as much fun out of
the Voyager MkII as we did in designing it.
Voyager MkII fitted to a 9v battery with 1.75m
(6ft) antenna
LOCATING A
TRANSMITTER If you are
trying to find a transmitter such as the Voyager MkII, when it is
transmitting, you can turn on a transistor radio and tune across the dial.
You will get a feedback whistle (when you are in close proximity) and this
will indicate a transmitter is present. But the job of actually
locating the transmitter with a radio is very difficult. A radio has no
directional ability and it will need two people to do the searching. One
will need to hold and listen to the radio while the other searches through
the room looking for the bug. If the searcher makes very low
level sounds, the person with the radio will be able to detect when the
searcher is getting close to the microphone. The problem with this is most
transmitters are so sensitive that it is difficult to know when the
searcher is getting really close to the microphone. Two employees of
Talking Electronics tried for 15 minutes to find a hidden bug with this
method and failed to locate it, so the chances of tracking it down are
slim. The other method is to use a Bug Detector. Talking Electronics
has designed a very simple-to-operate device called Bug Detector
2000. It is extremely easy to use and only needs to be switched on
with the antenna extended and the volume turned up. It is a broad-band
receiver and picks up the whole FM band at the one time so you don't have
to tune across any of the frequencies. This means you can't miss
anything and by simply moving around the room with the antenna
outstretched like a probe you will get a feedback whistle from the
built-in speaker, if a transmitter is present. By turning the volume
down, the meter on the front of Bug Detector 2000 will come into
operation and register field strength. It's simply a matter of moving
around the room again, this time observing the deflection of the needle on
the meter. The needle will fully deflect at a distance of about 3
metres (10ft) from most transmitters and to get closer you must make
Bug Detector 2000 less sensitive by reducing the length of the
telescopic antenna. This will allow you to "home-in" and get right up to
the bug, which may be hidden under a book or shelf. Using the radio
method described above will get you close to the transmitter but then you
will have to do a lot of tapping around to try and find the bug
itself. Bug Detector 2000 achieves a result almost silently so
that once the bug is located, it can be left in place or removed,
according to the circumstances.
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