Electronic Dazer
By Rick Duker
Never walk in fear with this one-evening
project. It won't kill, but it is an effective way to say "Leave me
alone!"

Parts List
R1
= 3K3, 5%
R2 = 1M, 5%
C1 = .1µF, monocapacitor
C2-C9 = 0.01µF 400 volt
polyester capacitors
D1-D8 = 1N4007, 1-kVolt diodes
NE1 = Type NE-2 neon
bulb
Q1 = MJE521 NPN power transistor
Q2 = MJE371 PNP power
transistor
T1 = 1200 to 8 ohm audio power transformer
S1 = SPST
momentary-contact, pushbutton switch
Additionally:
9-volt battery
clip, 10 x 5 x 2.5cm plastic case, 7.5 x 4cm perfboard or pcboard, two 8/32 x
1-1/4 bolts and nuts for electrodes, adhesive for mounting NE-1, circuit board
standoffs (optional), hookup wire, solder, etc.
WARNING:
THIS DEVICE IS NOT A TOY!
We present it for EDUCATIONAL and EXPERIMENTAL purposes ONLY. The circuit
develops about 2000 volts at a respectable amperage. It can cause you pain and
even damage if you become careless and touch its output terminals. The unit can
also damage property as well so use it wisely. You should NEVER use the device
on another person! It may not be agains the law to possess such a device in your
area, but if you use it on someone you may be deemed liable a a civil and/or
criminal action suit. Don't just follow the golden rule after constructing the
project, instead just don't do it unto anyone. Included in the article are a
number of instructions on how to build, test, and operate the Dazer; all of them
must be followed to the letter. Do not deviate from the
procedure.
The Electronic Dazer is a modern, portable,
personal-protection appliance. It generates hight potential energy to ward off
vicious animals or other attackers. It is an aid to help exape from a
potentially dangerous situation. the device develops about 2,000 volts. Higher
voltages mabe be attained by adding aditional multiplier stages, but it should
be noted that those stage will also increase the overal size of the unit.
The
Dazer is very compact, being built into a small plastic case. It is powered by a
single 9-volt battery, either NiCad or alkaline. (Editor's Note: the so-called
9-V NiCad actually provides only about 7.5V. Why? NiCad cells only give 1.25 per
cell. 6 cells in a 9volt battery gives it 7.5V and so the Alkaline type would be
a better choice).
The high voltage is applied to two electrodes which require
only light contact to be effective. When touched with the Dazer, the victim will
receive a stunning, but non-lethal jolt of electricity that will usually
discourage any further encounters.
The electronic Dazer is apower supply
which consists of a micro-size regenerative amplifier/oscillator coupled to an
energy multiplier section. It should not be confused with a cheap induction-type
cattle prods. The Dazer is more versatile than other high-voltage stun devices
currently being sold. Those devices are basically high-voltage, AC generators
which jam the nervous system. However, the Dazer may be used for heating and
burning applications, or anywhere a high voltage DC supply is
required.
How it
Works:
Refering to the schematic diagram, the two power
transistors Q1 and Q2, form a regenerative amplifier operating as a power
oscillator. When Q1 turns on, Q2 turns on and that shorts the power supply
across the primary of T1. That current pulse induces a high voltage in the
secundary of T1. As C1 charges, Q1 turns on again and the cycle repeats itself.
Therefore, a rapid series of DC pulses are generated and stepped up by T1 to
approximately 300 volts at full battery charge. That voltage is rectified and
increased by the voltage muliplier section which consists of C2 and C9, and D1
to D8. The final output is approximately 2000 volts. The neon bulb NE1 is used
as a charge indicator and indicates that the unit is charge and operating
properly.
Construction:
As with all projects start out by laying
out and indentifying. If you do not wish to make a printed-circuit-board, then
you may use perf board as long as you remember to keep the leads of all
high-voltage components isolated. That is to prevent sparks from arcing across
your board. A 4 x 7.5 cm of perfboard is suitable for that purpose.
The first
components you should mount are the two transistors Q1, Q2, transformer T1,
resistor R1, and neon bulb NE1. Solder them in place (for PCB construction)
being sure that the transformer and transistors are hooked up correctly. Apply a
small amount of adhesive to the base of NE1 to hold it securely in
place.
Mount D1 to D8 and C2 to C9 on the board and make all solder
connections. Note proper polarity of the diodes. The off-board components come
next. Solder in leads for S1, and the output electrodes. Also solder in the
battery clip for B1.
Build the enclosure from some nonconductive material
such as plastic. Drill holes for S1, NE1, and output electrodes. Be sure that
the output electrodes are about a cm or greater apart. Connect the output wires
tot the electrodes and insert them trhought holes from inside of the case.
Thread on the retaining nuts and tighten them securely. Set the circuit board in
the case and mount S1, securing with nut. That completes the
construction.
Testing:
Before inserting the
battery and closing the case, a few test measurements should be made
to ensure correct operation.
With the ground clip connected to battery (do
NOT connect the complete clip to the battery ONLY the ground), connect a volt or
multimeter between the positive clip and the positive terminal of the battery.
Set the meter for current reading, and press S1. You should measure a current of
approximately 300 to 500mA. NE1 should be glowing.
With a high voltage
multimeter or VOM, you should measure about 2000 volts on the output terminals.
Those measurements indicate proper circuit operation. Let the unit run for about
one minute (keep pressing S1). Transistors Q1 and Q2 should be warm, but not hot
to the touch. Insert the battery in the holder and close the case. That wraps up
the Electronic Dazer.
Operation and
Use:
Activate the unit by pressing S1. NE1 will light
indicating the dazer is fully charged and ready to use. Notice also that only
one pole of the neon light will glow, indicating DC voltage present. It is
important to remember that the device hods a charge even after S1 is off. To
discharge, (do not press S1) touch the lectrodes to a metal object and not the
healthy spark discharge.
The Electronic Dazer was designed as a self-defense
weapon for use against vicious dogs or other attacking animals. The device is
most effective when the electrodes contact an area of low resistance such as
skin or flesh. Those include the snout or mouth since the resistance of those
areas are much lower than areas of hair of fur. The electrodes could be pointed
to penetrate these areas better. The dazer generates great stopping power. One
contact will give a powerfull jolt and should discourage any further attacks.
(I had my bench model 'turbo-charged' to 12,000 volts with the probes
2-inches (5cm) apart).
The device can burn and heat materials with low
resistance. Those include flesh, moistened paper or wood, etc. That makes the
unit potentially hazardous to humans. Remember, the daser is not a toy
but a quality electrical appliance and therefore must be treated accordingly.
Use the utmost discretion with this device.
Another
use for this device is as a high voltage DC power supply. It may be constructed
as avariable power supply if output taps are taken from various stages of the
voltage multiplier section. Remember, always disconnect the battery and fully
discharge the capacitors before working with the circuitry.
Again, this project is for educational and/or
laboratory purposes only and even so, it is your responsibility to check with
local, provincial, and federal law enforcement in regards to the legality for
having in possesion or the construction of this project. I take no
responsibility, whatsoever, for the use and/or experimentation with this circuit
and other lethal high voltage projects.
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Page Copyright © 2001 - Tony
van Roon